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维基百科,自由的百科全书
仰望星空派
英语:Stargazy pie
准备上桌的仰望星空派
别称Starrey gazey pie
上菜顺序主食
起源地英国
地区康沃尔郡Mousehole英语Mousehole
上菜温度
主要成分Pilchards英语Pilchards

仰望星空派(英语:Stargazy pie,亦作英语:starrey gazey pie)是英国康沃尔地区的一种传统美食,由沙丁鱼搭配马铃薯和鸡蛋,上敷起酥面皮烤制而成。尽管还有一些使用其他鱼类做料理的版本,普遍而言,仰望星空派最为独特之处即是鱼头(或鱼尾)向上穿出酥皮,呈仰望天空之状。

长久以来,仰望星空派的起源地被认为是康沃尔西南端的毛斯尔村(Mousehole village),用于庆祝当地的传统节日“汤姆鲍考克之夜”(英语:Tom Bawcock's Eve),以纪念这位村民在暴风骤雨的冬夜出海捕鱼的英雄壮举。在“汤姆鲍考克之夜”当天,村民会用彩灯打造出仰望星空派造型的灯饰,而根据此节日活动可知,汤姆当夜出海的全部收获,总共七种鱼类,用于烤制出巨型仰望星空派后,帮助、解救村民度过饥荒。 有证据表明,节日的源头可能更加久远,甚至先于基督教的传入。而汤姆鲍考克的故事能广为人知,则归因于Antonia Barber所创作的儿童绘本 The Mousehole Cat,而该绘本便是以“仰望星空派”的由来为一大特点。 2007年,选手Mark Hix更用一种仰望星空派,在英国广播公司所主办的“大英选单”节目(Great British Menu)赢得胜利。

描述

仰望星空派是一道以油酥面团为基底,且传统上使用整尾沙丁鱼填满的鲜鱼派。值得注意的是,每尾沙丁鱼都必须保留下它们的鱼头,好穿出上层的油酥饼皮,这样才能呈现出昂首仰望星空的景象。 这样鱼的摆放方式,能让烹煮过程中释出的油脂倒流回派中,除了可以增添更饱满的风味,更可以确保整个派得以维持湿润[1]。名主厨 Rick Stein,则建议:也可以尝试让沙丁鱼的鱼尾穿出派面,以营造出鱼儿跃出水面的画面[2]。 尽管British Food Trust将仰望星空派形容成对于儿童而言,不仅有趣而且十分俱有娱乐性的料理[1],但它仍然被 New York Daily News 根据美国作家Neil Setchfield的一本著作,将其列为“恶心!真的有人在吃的恶心食物”之一[3][4]。 另外,在一段重新演绎过的传说故事里,仰望星空派在“汤姆鲍考克之夜”的有些时候,只能在毛斯尔当地唯一一家酒吧──The Ship Inn,才能享用得到[5]

起源

"Merry place you may believe, Tiz Mouzel 'pon Tom Bawcock's eve

To be there then who wouldn't wesh, to sup o' sibm soorts o' fish
When morgy brath had cleared the path, Comed lances for a fry
And then us had a bit o' scad an' Starry-gazie pie
As aich we'd clunk, E's health we drunk, in bumpers bremmen high,

And when up caame Tom Bawcock's name, We'd prais'd 'un to the sky"
Traditionally sung on Tom Bawcock's Eve[6]

仰望星空派起源于康沃尔西南端的渔村Mousehole。s with many parts of Cornish heritage, a legend has appeared about its origins. 这种派是为了纪念Tom Bawcock的过人勇气。Tom Bawcock是16世纪的当地渔民。根据传说,一个暴风雨不断的冬天,由于反常的猛烈暴风雨,渔船无法出海。耶诞将至,以鱼类为主要食物来源的村民却饥寒交迫。[6]

12月23日,Tom Bawcock 决定在风暴中驾船出海。在恶劣的天气和呼啸的海浪中,他成功捕回足够全村食用的鱼。全部收获烤制成一个大派,这七种鱼的鱼头冲破表面的酥皮The entire catch (including seven types of fish) was baked into a pie, which had the fish heads poking through to prove that there were fish inside. 从此,12月23日成为渔村的节日,the Tom Bawcock's Eve festival is held on 23 December in Mousehole. 在晚间的庆典期间,村民会抬着巨派游行,手提手工灯笼,然后将派享用,以纪念汤姆的壮举。[6][7][8]

An older feast, held by the fishermen towards the end of December, included a pie cooked with different fish to represent the variety of catches the men hoped to achieve in the coming year. There is a possibility that Tom Bawcock's Eve is an evolution of this festival.[9] Since 1963, the festival has been run against the backdrop of the Mousehole village illuminations, 灯塔会灯火通明,其他活动[10] One set of lights even represents the pie itself, showing fish heads and tails protruding from a pie dish underneath six stars.[11]

有传言说,这一节日只是当地旅馆Ship inn在1950年代炮制的。然而,早在1927年的《老康沃尔》 杂志中,Morton Nance, an author on the 康沃尔语就已经记载了这一节日。他认为,这一节日在20世纪之前就已经存在,尽管他怀疑汤姆的真实性,并提出这个人名源于"Beau Coc"。他同时在书中肯定这一节日起源于基督教传入之前,然而仰望星空派何时成为节日的一部分却无从考证。Morton Nance 还传统歌曲,went on to restore the traditional song sung on Tom Bawcock's Eve, played to the local tune "wedding March".[12]

烹饪方法

A blue ceramic dish containing a stargazy pie, with six fish poking out of a shortcrust pastry lid, looking skywards
仰望星空派,沙丁鱼看上去像望向天空。放入烤箱烘培之前的仰望星空派

传说中最早的仰望星空派包括sand eel英语sand eelhorse mackerel英语horse mackerelpilchards、鲱鱼dogfish and 魣鳕 along with a seventh fish。而传统的仰望行空派的主要材料是沙丁鱼,有时mackerel or herring也可作为替代。Richard Stevenson, chef at The Ship Inn in Mousehole, 任何白肉鱼类均可以作为原料,with pilchards or herring just added for the presentation. 。为食用方便,备料时鱼身要先去鳞去骨,而保留完整头尾。其他传统配料包括浓缩牛奶、鸡蛋和著熟的马铃薯。[13]

仰望星空派还有添加其他原料的变种,包括煮鸡蛋、培根、洋葱、芥末或白葡萄酒之类。有一些版本中,鱼肉甚至可以改为crayfish and 兔肉羊肉。无论底料如何,正宗的仰望星空派的表面一定要覆盖面皮,通常shortcrust,但有时puff pastry, 鱼头、偶尔是鱼尾从中穿出来。[13]

由于摆盘的需要,建议将沙丁鱼尾部向心排列,这样头部可以朝向四周的边缘伸出。由于有面皮和土豆作为主食,仰望星空派可以单独食用,也可搭配面包或蔬菜。柠檬碎。Other suggested accompaniments are Cornish Yarg, Rhubarb chutney, poached eggs or a slice of lemon.[13][14]

在流行文化中

The Mousehole Cat

The children's book The Mousehole Cat by Antonia Barber is inspired by Tom Bawcock's Eve. It is the story of Tom Bawcock and his loyal black and white cat, Mowzer, setting sail to catch the fish. When the boat hits the storm, it is represented by a giant "Storm-Cat", allowing Mowzer to eventually save the day by soothing the storm with her purring. This purring becomes a song and while the Storm-Cat is resting Tom is able to haul in his catch and return to the village. When they arrive back at the village, the entire catch is baked into a "Star-Gazy" pie, on which the villagers feast. Notably, Antonia Barber points out that stargazy pie was a staple of Mousehole diet before Tom's heroic fishing expedition, however, whereas according to tradition it dates from his return and legendary catch.[15]

Great British Menu和Mark Hix

The main course of the second series of the Great British Menu was won by Mark Hix, head chef at The Ivy in London, with a variation on stargazy pie.[16] Instead of the traditional pilchards, 兔肉和淡水龙虾 for the filling, 并将虾头穿出酥皮表面。As the winning main course, the pie was served along with the other winning courses at an Ambassador's dinner at the 巴黎的英国大使馆的大使晚宴 in Paris.[16][17]评委还破例选择了他的甜点,使其成为节目历史上唯一的主菜和甜点双料冠军。Mark Hix had previously created a similar version of the dish for a festival aimed at increasing the use of 羊肉. His 他的羊肉龙虾仰望星空派制成于2006年,并一度在他的餐馆推出这道菜。[18]

恶魔与仰望星空派

根据另一段传说,仰望星空派和其他康沃尔地区的奇葩派使得魔鬼从来不敢进入康沃尔。

Robert Hunt英语Robert Hunt (scientist)在他所著的康沃尔传统丛书《Popular romances of the west of England; or, The drolls, traditions, and superstitions of old Cornwall》中解释道,恶魔曾经穿过塔马河来到托波因特。此章节名为“The Devil's Coits, etc”,原因是当恶魔看到这些派后,发现康沃尔人做派无所不用其极,并决定在被他们做成“魔鬼派”之前逃离,回到德文郡。[19][20]

其他

• The BBC miniseries Poldark featured Cornish couple Demelza and Ross Poldark eating a stargazy pie.
Ladies in Lavender, 设定于康沃尔,was also set in Cornwall and featured a stargazy pie.
• The dish was also featured on the ITV show, Britain's Best Dish.
• In the children's book, The Lighthouse Keeper's Cat by Ronda and David Armitage, the protagonist's favourite dish is stargazy pie, and he is rewarded with one at the end.[21]
• The American rock band, The Silver Seas (under their previous name The Bees U.S.) released an album called Starry Gazey Pie. The album and titular track were based upon a recipe in a cookbook which band member Daniel Tashian remembered from his childhood.[22]
• A stargazy pie appears in the film adaptation of James and the Giant Peach.
• 仰望星空派为英国广播公司电视系列节目天空之派的第二季第三部增添了戏剧色彩。剧中的新手主厨为了让他的晚餐引人注目,准备了他个人版本的仰望星空派,结果却一塌糊涂。
• This culinary creation has been presented in Chinese media as a dish that "has come to epitomise British cuisine in Chinese eyes".[23]

参见

参考资料

  1. ^ 1.0 1.1 Stargazey pie. The British Food Trust. [7 January 2011]. 
  2. ^ Stein, Rick. Rick Stein's Food Heroes. BBC Books. 2005. ISBN 0-563-52175-9. 
  3. ^ Yuck! disgusting things people eat (number 9). New York Daily News. 24 August 2010 [7 January 2011]. 
  4. ^ Setchfield, Neil. Yuck! The things people eat. Merrell. 2010. ISBN 1-85894-524-0. 
  5. ^ Berry, Oliver; Dixon, Belinda. Devon, Cornwall & South West England. Lonely Planet. 2008: 48 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 1-74104-873-7. 
  6. ^ 6.0 6.1 6.2 The Story of Tom Bawcock. BBC News. 2 December 2009 [7 January 2011]. 
  7. ^ Kent, Michael. Cornwall from the Coast Path. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2008: 103. ISBN 0-906720-68-0. 
  8. ^ Trewin, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam. Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2005: 16. ISBN 0-906720-39-7. 
  9. ^ Paston-Williams, Sara. Fish: Recipes from a Busy Island. National Trust Books. 2006: 21 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 1-905400-07-1. 
  10. ^ Mousehole village illuminations. BBC News. 12 November 2009 [7 January 2011]. 
  11. ^ Mousehole comes to life with light. BBC. [7 January 2011]. 
  12. ^ Deane, Troy; Shaw, Tony. The folklore of Cornwall. Batsford. 1975. ISBN 0-7134-3037-0. 
  13. ^ 13.0 13.1 13.2 Trewing, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam. Cornish Fishing and Seafood. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2006: 243 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 0-906720-42-7. 
  14. ^ Stargazy pie. Britain's Best Dish. ITV. [7 January 2011]. 
  15. ^ Cohn, Amy. Children's Books: The Mousehole Cat. The New York Times. 10 March 1991 [7 January 2011]. 
  16. ^ 16.0 16.1 Stacey, Caroline. Mark Hix serves up a seasonal feast. The Times. 11 October 2008 [7 January 2011]. 
  17. ^ Dugan, Emily. Champion of British food dominates the 'Great British Menu'. The Independent. 8 June 2007 [7 January 2011]. 
  18. ^ Mutton gambols back on the menu. BBC News. 1 October 2006 [7 January 2011]. 
  19. ^ Hunt, Robert. Popular romances of the west of England; or, The drolls, traditions, and superstitions of old Cornwall. JC Hotten. 1871: 185–186. 
  20. ^ Croxford, Bob. From Cornwall with love. Dundurn Press. 1993. ISBN 0-9521850-0-8. 
  21. ^ Armitage, Ronda; Armitage, David. The Lighthous Keeper's Cat. Scholastic. 1997. ISBN 0-590-13260-1. 
  22. ^ The Bees (U.S.): 'Starry Gazey Pie'. NPR Music. 20 January 2008 [7 January 2011]. 
  23. ^ http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-china-blog-27442398

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